Steering Rack Modification

Hi

First off! for those of you who spotted yesterdays deliberate mistake then well done, for those of you who did not spot it; then 'what mistake'.

I foolishly got the control arms on the wrong sides, it was not until this morning when I tried to fit the track rod ends that I realised the internal tapper was upside down. Once I stopped swearing I found it was not as big a problem as I originally thought, It just required the tension in the spring being held while the control arm nuts were removed and the arms swapped round.

Spring being held

I fitted a spring compressor on the underside of the lower arm and the other end over the upper arm, a bit of tension to hold then gingerly undid the control arm nuts. I refitted the dampers and around 40mins later all done.

The paint was dry on the steering rod and knuckle, and the stiffer one soaked over night in oil was nice and free so time for my small mod to prevent future seizing. The universal steering rack boots are perfect for the job and cheap at only around £5.

Universal boots

The boots have cut of areas to fit lots of sizes, the top was is uncut and the lower ready to fit.

Boot fitted

I first packed the knuckle with grease then slid the boot over, being rubber I was able to stretch it over all the lumpy bits. One end I secured with a tie wrap and left the other end until bolted to what was left in the car.

Not a great photo but you get the idea, once bolted on I slid the boot over the bolt and tie wrapped in place.

Rack end

Once the sub frame was slide in place I pushed on the steering rod knuckle end, unfortunately I got the fit wrong and the steering wheel is a few degrees out, I am hoping that when I change the wheel I can sort it, If not the the rack will have to come off again to turn the knuckle. 

Once in place I packed with grease and slid down the boot,

Unfortunately I have not been able to get a tie wrap to stay in place on the bottom end yet as it keeps sliding of but I'll get there.

The subframe went in quite easily considering its awkward size and shape, a few things to remember when fitting.

First the large black plastic washers need to be in place before jacking into position.

large black washer

Secondly, Don't forget when positioning the subframe the steering knuckle is slid in first. You can't fit after without unbolting the steering rack.

How did I learn this, by firstly fitting without doing either, secondly by fitting with the big black washers and not the steering knuckle then thirdly by fitting the right way.

The big bushes for the subframe were a bit difficult to fit at first as the lead edges were to shallow so a little shave and a spray of silicon grease and they slid in position, there was an i.d mark showing the upside to get it right.

Subframe in postion

All in all the whole job of removing and re-building was not that difficult, I replaced all of the bushes, ball joints, track ends and dampers. Sand blasted everything and had most pieces powder coated, those pieces not coated were hammerited. 

Before

After

Before

After

 The next job is to fit the hubs and get the wheels on, hopefully tomorrow.

See ya Paul

Subframe and Suspension

Hi

Back home again after a 3 week stint onboard my ship, 1 week of before I return so I need to cram in as much time on the car as my wife will allow.

I did not get as much done last time home as I would have liked but I did crack on, it was mostly underside work which I am finished with for the time being although no where near fully finished. Last time I managed to get some protection on the outer and importantly the inside of the framework. The sides and under were cleaned of all rust that I could access while on stands, the areas that I had difficulty getting at were given a rust cure treatment, then primed and 2 coats of chassis paint applied. Thankfully I could find no more signs of pitting or holes in the box sections, I then got out my Schultz gun. Now this is one messy job, first off I fitted the extension hose and got right inside all of the box as far as I could spray with Vactan rust cure. I used over 1 1/2 litres in the hope of hitting anything that was not previously treated. Then it was the turn of the wax oil, over 4 litres was sprayed inside the box section and around half a litre over the garage floor and me. I also looked at where water was ingressing through the fuel pipe drilling's as this was the cause of the underside rusting, I had a tube of flexible roofing sealant handy so I sealed everything I could find with this. Next was the gap where the body work ends and the chassis begins this had a nice big gap which you can't really see with the wings on, no more gap now. Once the engine, gearbox and exhaust are all of I shall be able to get further underneath and preserve everything before I spray with schulz or some other underseal.

Typically the day before I left my new poly bushes arrived, I know I went for the cheaper option with the Flo-flex as opposed to the Superflex but as I said before for only a couple of thousand miles a year around country roads do I really need track running gear. Anyway I did do a search on Flo-flex and was surprised at some of the good comments.

http://passionford.com/forum/ford-sierra-sapphire-rs500-cosworth/221543-powerflex-v-flo-flex.html

Flo-flex poly bushes

As you can see, a rather bright shade of orange.
The Superflex and Powerflex have a different colour scheme, each of there colours denotes the hardness (shore rating) of the poly, so each different use ie. wishbones will be one colour / hardness while an ARB may well have a different colour / hardness. Flo-flex does it a bit differently in that they use just one hardness therefore keeping the price down, but as you can see there is no skimping on quality; I originally bought Powerflex which I had to return and comparing the 2 I can see no difference.
http://www.floflex.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23_40_44&osCsid=f4819c91798b26c3c59d41d08e58aadd

Cortina Mk 4/5 poly bushes used for the front suspension and steering.

• CRT45X Cross member mounting set £14.75p

These come in a set of 4 for the Cortina, call and ask for only 2 and stipulate the insert to be 65mm not 70mm as used on the other 2 not required. I ended up with 70mm inserts as you can see in the photo and had to put them on the lathe.

• CRT45FRNTG Steering rack large £7.26
• CRT45FRNTF Steering rack small £6.05
• CRT45FRNTC Tie bar                  £12.10
• CRT45FRNTB Lower wishbone    £14.52
• CRT45FRNTA Upper wishbone    £14.52

These all come with galvo inserts or there is also a stainless option that I went for at £3 per insert.

http://www.superflex.co.uk/products.php?cat=148

The Superflex bushes do look the biz and if I never had next to every item on the car to replace I may well have went for them.

• SF148-1547KSS front subframe      £52.75
• SF148-1187K Steering rack kit        £18.75
• SF148-0046KSS Tie bar                 £25.75
• SF148-0262KSS Lower wishbone  £30.75
• SF148--1401KSS Upper wishbone £110

All of these above prices are subject to VAT and P+P.

I have spent some of yesterday and most of today re-building the front subframe and boy what a difference from when I first took it out.

Just a reminder

Fitting the steering rack and the bushes into the arms went without a problem, the fitting of the springs was a bit more problematic and dangerous if not done correctly.
For any one wishing to do this here is a step guide.

First of is safety, these things can cause serious injury or kill if not handled correctly while under compression so beware.
I used a internal set of spring compressors, these are a slimmer set than the normal heavy duty ones as they have to fit through the small space where the gas damper fits, you can also use them for external compression.

1st stage

Place the spring in position, there is a stop on the bottom where the spring end is located, ground end up. I had pieces of rubber gasket material ready so as not to damage the powder coat, slip the compressors in from the bottom and hand tighten on to spring. Try and get the back one the highest as it has the most work to do.

2nd stage

Tighten the nuts on the compressor evenly and compress the spring far enough down so that the back end can slip under the upper locating ring. Once this is achieved you can fit the control arm onto the upper and lower ball joints. The spring will not stay in place just yet because of its weight so clamps are required.

3rd stage

Fit the G clamps to hold the spring in place over the upper locating ring.

4th stage

You can now undo the compressors, again take care as even though the spring is now safely trapped the compressors can get a bit stuck and needs a tap which releases them a bit with a loud crack. Finger out of the way, just undo evenly and out they will pop.

5th stage

The last job is to fit the damper, I have fitted gas dampers from my local auto supplier for around £30 each, these locate on the bottom 2 studs and you feed the long bolt in the top. This can take a bit of wiggling as you cannot move the lower arm to position it correctly but with a toggle bar it went in Ok.
I have been getting into the habit of painting every nut & bolt as I tighten it, this ensures I don't miss torquing any up and prevents bits dropping of at 70mph, so any unpainted bolts will need checking at the end.
The last job of the day was the removal of the steering rod and knuckle joints, I had already removed the lower one that went onto the rack and this was really stiff, the one coming from nearest the steering wheel was lovely and free; so I guess the MOT failure I had on notchy steering was down to the lower knuckle. Its hardly surprising that this was to blame seeing as how there is zero protection from the weather. I have managed with a lot of WD40 and oil to get it moving freely and ready to fit, I have also bought a set of universal steering rack boots. I am going to slide these up the steering rod when I fit it, then fill the knuckles full of grease and slide the boots over them, a couple of tie wraps and this should prevent any future seizing. I have all the steering bits painted so hopefully tomorrow I should be in a position to fit the subframe as I need the car rolling to turn it and start on the rear suspension.
I have been debating since the purchase of this car as to the colour it will end up, I was always after a 2 tone finish but could not decide on red and cream / ivory or red and black. Well the decision was made for me.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200664549116?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
(Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to copy a photo from ebay)
But I am now the owner of this fantastic original Kallista steering wheel in maroon & cream leather a bit expensive at £108 and I must apologize to the other guy bidding but I was determend to get it and had a £350 max on it; stupid but hey!. So the colour coding of the car is sorted. 2 tone in Maroon candy with cream frost paint and hopefully a leather interior with the same colours, I also secured a pair of chrome over riders, just had to get rid of them plastic ones.
Well that's all for today
See ya Paul

Radiator

Hi

Well the weather was glorious so the top was down on the MX5 and we set out north this time, we headed off up the Northumbrian coastal route and ended up in Craster. http://www.northumberland-cam.com/craster/

Craster  is a small coastal fishing village famous throughout the world for is oak smoked kippers and I fancied some for breakfast, and very nice indeed. After the kippers we went for a walk up the coast to Dustanburgh castle. Just one of the many castle on this side of coast.

Lynne and castle

Only around a 2 mile walk and very nice when the sun is shinning, anyone not done the drive up the north coast will surely enjoy it.

Things have started to arrive on the car front. firstly the powder coater arrived with the front end suspension and subframe. What a fantastic job, every bit looks like it is straight off the shelf, I am really pleased I took the advise of my mate Shaun to get it done professionally. I already have a collection of bits ready for the next batch, I shall post photos of the quality when I re-build the suspension.

Next was the radiator, got a call from Advanced radiators and picked it up on my drive north, yet another fantastic job. After seeing what came out of the car to what they where able do it was well worth the £166

Radiator before re-core

After re-core

Next to arrive was the bushes; unfortunately I made a mistake on the Powerflex selection, the tie rod bushes were good as were the lower arm but what I thought were the upper arm bushes when i ordered turned out to be the upper ARB bushes. It appears Powerflex only make the Lower suspension arm bushes and not the upper. So after a talk with Larkspeed I have returned them all. The Flo-flex bushes I ordered also arrived and after comparing the quality against the Powerflex I gave them a ring and ordered the rest of the bushes from them. They may be the cheaper option at around £120 for the lot with stainless inserts and being all bright orange but they look and feel well made. http://www.floflex.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23_40_44

I have carried on with the underside getting all of the rust off and where I cannot grind clean I have used the rust converter. I had a bit of a shock on the drivers side with the amount of repair work carried out, around 3ft of the side panel has been replaced. Also there is a weld on the pipe that hold the bumper bar, I can't see any distortion to the frame work, and the subframe has no evidence of damage but it has defiantly been cut and welded. You may be able to make out the weld in the photo, around 6" back from the square plate.

Drivers side frame

Pass side primed

First coat of chassis black

Both sides blacked

 I have primed all of the frame work and painted with the new chassis paint, I have used the tough black spray on the front arms to get a better finish than with a brush. I shall rub down tomorrow with the green pad and give it another coat, should be well protected on the sides and an extra coat of hammerite under seal on the underside over the chassis paint should give it a lot more years.

I have taken one of the door steps to a sheet metal firm to get a price on stainless steps and new frame work, should get a quote on monday.

A waxoil application gun arrived today so tomorrow I shall give it ago and spray some rust converter into the sections I don't think are waxoiled, I have a 5 litre tin of waxoil to use up so all of the boxes will be getting a good coating.

Paul

Hole Patching

Hi

Been under the car again today, which I suppose will be a recurring theme for quite a while, but first I had to spend the morning driving around sourcing a large gas bottle. I had problems with my welding yesterday which I have found out is called burn back so it was off to Machine mart for new tips and more gas. I was lucky enough to talk to a guy who works there who restores cars and he put me onto a local gas supplier with far more realistic prices than £14 for a 1/3rd litre bottle from Machine mart. I ended up at Ashley gas supplies in Ryton Sunderland where a large pub style Co2 bottle cost £48, £40 refundable on return and £8 per refill; that's more like it.

I also figured out my burn back problem as being the wire feed to low and a dodgy swan neck and tip so I have replaced them, now its just learning the machine, although I am much better at TIG and stick.

I have spent the rest of the day welding patches to the holey parts of the frame work, I uncovered this little lot yesterday. The water has got in between the grommets for the fuel pipes and because it was only a small piece 125mm long no one thought to drill it for wax oiling
 

I got out my dremmel with a grinder attachment to have a look inside.

I have managed to scrape out most of the loose rust and made a large patch out of a couple of pieces of angle iron with a hole drilled in for rust cure and wax oil injection.

It may not look brilliant, but it is underneath and once painted and hammerite underbody sealed will make it invisible.

The exposed holes on the upper chassis arms required a bit more finesse, I tried touch welding the holes but just made it worst. So a patch was cut from some 3mm and welded on, a bit of grinding and ready for vactan and primmer.

I also received a call today that my radiator is ready, so it looks like a lot more driving tomorrow although the powder coater hasn't come through with they promise to deliver today.
Paul

Hole repair

Hi

Got back late Wednesday night for a 2 week break, only today have I actually got down to doing some work on the car, even though you can't see that I have made progress.

I have managed to organize some other things during my time; firstly after many years in my job and many years spending some of the money earned at Halfords I have only just found out that I am entitled to a Halfords Trade card. So any Engineers out there get down with your quals and get a discount on all of those essentials, tools, oil, filters, lamps, all sorts.

I have been trying to track down which radiator is fitted to the Kallista, even though it is stamped Ford I have had no luck so far. I first contacted http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/catalog/Ford_Radiator-26-1.html which has all Ford models listed with picture and sizes and could not find it there. I spoke to them and sent photo and sizes but got nothing back. I next asked the man who knows these things, (Terry) and he said it was commonly thought to be from a Granada 2.8 but the sizes don't match what is currently available for this model. So it was a re-core, I have found a good firm in Newcastle http://www.adrad.co.uk/ who are charging around £150 for a full re-furb.
Next was front end bushes, I have spent my 2 weeks away trying to figure out the best deal on my budget, I had 3 main manufactures in mind, Superflex, Powerflex and Flo-flex. As always the best is the most expensive so with probably only 2 to 3000 miles per year and no rallying I have plumbed for the Powerflex and the Flo-flex. The Powerflex ordered are the Upper and Lower wishbones and  Tie rods, the Flo-flex are the front chassis mounting and the steering rack large and small. Unfortunately Powerflex do not do the chassis mounting bushes which was the reason I went with Flo-flex.
Costing
Powerflex for all bushes      £84 inc p+p
Flo-flex for all bushes         £44 inc p+p
My first choice for the Chassis bushes were Superflex but the cost for these 2 bushes was (inc p+p) more or less the same as all the Powerflex bushes. I can always change to Superflex in the future for the chassis if I find the Flo-flex no good.
Next purchase was chassis paint, I had started using Hammerite, mainly because I did not know what else to use and it was later suggested to me to try the paint from Ken & Lyn on 01298 814813 who sell they car supplies at the main motor shows. So after parting with £22 pounds I now have 2 1/2Lt of lovely black chassis paint.
Next buy was a Mig welder, I picked up a used Clarke 135TE for £150 locally from Gumtree.co.uk but need a bit more practice,
Well finally got stuck in today which involved the removal of the rest of the Pass side wings and after 26 years they did not want to budge but eventually of they came. The poor car looks rather sad without the wings.

It was out with the wire brush again and all of the other rust removal tools, the Hammerite came of easily and I got well underneath, I have found a number of holes in the members but surprisingly when removing the rubber bungs and sticking my finger in I have found wax oil.

This hole is were the chassis mounting arm drops down.

I made a metal patch, just about to weld it on.

Started welding this one.

Yet more to weld, I'd better stop there as I'm get depressed. 
start again tomorrow.
Paul

Tuesday 6/9/2011

Hi

Been a busy couple of days, I have the steering rack all painted, the gaiters changed and new track rod ends fitted. Looks like new.

No word on the bushes yet, gave him a ring and they are waiting on the new price list.

Suspension parts are still at the powder coaters, SO

I have have bit the bullet and started doing what scared me the most, Wings off.

I started by removing the headlights or trying to, the drivers side came off easy but I am afraid the pass side will need cutting off as they is no way the nut will unscrew. Not a problem, colour coded headlights are nice but www.europaspares.com have some lovely shells in heavy chrome, will look great with matching spots.

There is a fair bit of damage to the hole in the wing, it looks like the ally has broke away and only the underside fibreglass is keeping the hole in place, I shall have to make up a few ally washers and laminate to both sides with araldite. The swivel mount of the headlights is made of steel and was rusty, looks like it has eaten away at the aluminium and the oxide has swelled.

Headlight damage

Next was the radiator grill, made of plastic and not great, I am replacing this with a stainless grill from Bruno to give the front a clean look. Once off the full condition of the radiator became more apparent, I new it would need replacing but did not realise how bad it was, the copper on large sections of the fins was gone, total wreck.

inner side

Outer side

I need to track one down now, should not be to much trouble, it has Ford stamped on but no serial number so a bit of detective work, or of course I could ask Bruno or Terry Borton as I am sure these gents have been replaced a few over the years.

The surround frame I have put to one side ready for my next trip to the powder coaters.

Now that the radiator is out I can see the engine better and it looks like most of the engine oil leak problem has been the rocker covers all along. 5 minutes work when first seen could have saved a messy engine, on the positive side; it ain't rusty where the oil is.

The wings came off far easier that I imagined only 2 bolts and around 10 rivets, the ones inside the grill area were a little difficult to get at and one hidden behind the frame work but being ally they drilled out very easily. Once drilled a long sharp knife slide between the body and the wing and off it came. I shall get the rear one's off later but for now the wing went very carefully up into the loft.

Wing gone

One more wing, strange thing is that there are 2 different bolt sizes, the first wing had 10mm on to the step where as the drivers side had 8mm or BSW equivalent; maybe changes over the years.

The second wing was stuck on a bit better than the first but a little swearing and its up in the loft ready to be cleaned and sanded ready for the spraybooth.

I had already spent yesterday with the rotary wire brush getting the underside frames cleaned up and looking for monsters, and did not expect to find this.

Hidden under the paint and waxoil just behind the wing support bracket on the pass side, so now I know my chassis number or so I assume that is what it is.

I have got most of the waxoil of the sides and only found three monsters and they are all on the pass side. On reading the garage history I got with the car it mentioned a welding job on the car and it seems that it is in or around the same place but on the drivers side about 6" behind where the chassis bush holes are. I only have a stick welder so next time home I shall be looking for a MIG and get these holes welded up before the waxoil injection.

Well that's all I have managed this time home, get the early flight to Heathrow tomorrow for another 2 or hopefully 3 weeks, my wife is already talking about taking some more time of when I get home to climb another bloody mountain, so I am going to get her a boiler suit instead. That will soon put her off taking leave.
Paul

Friday 2/9/11

Hi

Not much done today, the main job is done though; a trip to the powder coaters. Don't know if I got a good price or not but for the sub frame all of the suspension arms, springs, tie rods and all of the other bits and bobs, he charged £100. This includes sand blasting and dropping them of for me. He also showed me the powder coated chrome effect on a set of alloys which looked quite impressive.

I have had the steering rack in the blasting cabinet as I am going to spray this myself, it may not like being cooked. I have also bought a new set of boots for the rack, the old ones looked in good repair  but may not last to many more years. the rack moves nice and free, so I guess the mot fail for notchy steering is mostly down to the steering u/j's. I'll have them out when I remove the engine for a re-build.

Steering rack boots

I have also bought the paint for what can't be powder coated and have settled for Simoniz gloss tough black and black hammerite for the rails.

Have removed all of the waxoil from the hub assemblies and sprayed with the Simonize and they look very nice.

Boots                        £12 inc p&p on ebay

Paint x6 tins               £32.75 free p&p on ebay  

Hammerite 750cl       £8 on the market stall £16 at screwfix, dread to think of the B&Q price

Powder coating         £100

Thats all for now Paul

Thursday 1/9/2011

Hi

Got back home yesterday after a 3 weeker, back on Wednesday for 2 weeks or possibly 3 if any more extra weeks come up; got to pay for the restoration.
Won't be able to get much done this time home as my wife has also taken more leave to climb some more big hills. It was Roseberry Topping this morning, only 50 mile away in Cleveland and very nice indeed, 360 deg views.

Anyway the time away was very productive as I managed gather a lot more information about restoring cars than I started with, so it is stop what I am doing and re-start afresh.

One of the Engineers I have been working with lately and have known for a year or so is (un-be-known to me) a serial car restorer and has been so for the past 30 odd years. He has restored everything from E types to Morgans to MG's and everything in between what he does not know is not worth knowing and goes by the fine name of 'The Dog' or Shaun Licence on his birth certificate.
So following his guidance most everything is to be powder coated, so my week or so work of sand blasting was a waste of time as it is all done by the powder coaters.

The next person I have taken notice of is again Terry Borton, I was going to retain the old bushes, on the grounds of them only doing 35,000 miles and of course expense as I was trying to keep to a £4000 budget. Terry suggested replacing all the bushes while the car is in pieces with Superflex, this works very well with the powder coating as the bushes have to be removed before coating and cooking the metal work.

One other to join the fray is Richard Younger, Chief Engineer from my sister ship. TVR driver and all round piston head who also happens to live only around 5 mile away. I text Richard as I know he loves this sort of thing and he has agreed to help strip and re-build the engine, he also happens to own an engine hoist and engine work station

I have been doing some research on the web for bushes and there seems to be 3 main manufactures, the top of the tree is Superflex, very expensive; Powerflex, moderately expensive and Flo-flex which appear to be at the budget end. I have decided that because I shall only be doing a few thousand miles per year and of course bearing in mind my budget that I shall go for the middle of the road and get the Powerflex. I have been in contact http://www.speedshack.co.uk/ who specialize in 70's 80's cars, giving them the requirements for a Cortina Mk4 and have asked for prices for all 3 makers, so once they get back to me I shall post there quotes as a comparison.

After searching Yell.com and a telephone call I have decided on a powder coater, they are  http://www.elitepowdercoatings.co.uk/ and hope to have everything ready to take to them tomorrow.

Finally got to work late in the afternoon and started boxing up everything I could, I have kept the hub's as I am a bit worried about grit getting inside and also the calipers until I have a word and make sure they can do them.

First job was bush extraction, I already had experience here while working on my MX5 and had also made the tool for the job, not really a tool, just a piece of pipe for the bush to slide into. A bit of 10mm stud bar  a few nuts, washers and a socket and the bushes just popped out. No heat from a blow torch required as on my MX5, easy.

Tool set up upper arm

Out she pops, lower arm

Once set up just tighten the nut on the socket side and it pushes out the old bush.

All of the suspension arm bushes popped out easy then it was the turn of the chassis bushes, the pipe tool was no use here so a bit of brute force was required and a liberal spray of WD40. The brute force came courtesy of my air chisel fitted with the spike tool, I slide a socket over this and attacked the bush, these where pretty tight fits but with the lubrication soon popped out.

chassis

They are surprisingly few bushes to replace as they is no stabiliser bar and drop links fitted as on a Cortina.

Selection of bushes

These are the 5 main bushes, Left to right are, Tie rod, steering rack big & small, chassis, Lower arm and upper arm x 2.

After searching for what else I could include for powder coating I removed the brackets from the steering rack, the brake hose mounting brackets and the support arms for the front wings. You can see from the photo how badly corroded it is under there, the bolts all sheared while removing.

That was all I could think of for the moment but this is just the first shipment to the powder coater's and shall get there tomorrow.

see ya Paul

Tuesday 9/8/2011

Hi
Last day to work on the car before I go back to work, 0930 flight tomorrow then 3 weeks, pleased for the rest.

I have given the remaining caliper and spring a couple of coats of red and they are looking very nice.

Spring and caliper in red finery

The rest of the day has been sandblasting, boy did this take some work. I have 4 different sandblasting guns from homemade for around £20 to my £250 sand carver from the states but the biggest tip is the homemade tungsten tipped one at only 3mm so it takes a lot of effort and a lot of air. Had to stop quite a few times for coffee and to let the compressor cool down.

Sub frame almost finished.

I had taken most of the paint and rust off yesterday with the electric tools so really this was just cleaning up and getting into all of those inaccessible places, still took over 4hrs.
Once all done I gave it a good coating of primer. Once all painted I shall get a wax oil spray gun and get right into those awkward places.

Primed sub frame

I have not decided yet on the best paint to finish with, as this section (without the spoiler) will take all of the weather / stones etc so I need something really tough. Any suggestions?

Well that's all for now, be back on it in 3.

See ya

Paul