Engine bay

Hi

Not much done yesterday with it being a Sunday, just shopping, visiting and the Grand Prix but still managed an hours work.

With the sump pan finally on I wanted to get some oil in and try to get it circulated into the oil ways, a bit of a high hope seeing as I can only crank it round with a ratchet but I gave it ago anyway. As this is just going to be the flushing oil I went for the cheapest 10W40 semi synthetic from Asda I could find, I also poured in a tin of Wyn's engine flush so hopefully when I get the engine running it will clean all of those areas I was unable to get to. I also took a trip to Halfords for a couple of oil filter, I bought Halfords own brand HOF220 at £4.95 each but with my trade card I got them both for £3.60. I have mentioned this before; if anyone reading this has an engineering qualification just take it down and ask the manager for a trade card, it can be in any engineering background and some of the discounts make it worth while shopping there. I spent a good 10 mins cranking the engine and hopefully some of the oil will have found its way into some of the areas that need it.

Today has been back to the dirty jobs, inside the bonnet this time.

Not so much dirty more rusty dust.

A lot of wires and pipes in the way of the painting so I had to remove them or move them, the fuel pipes are all perished so they came out in one piece so I would be able to remember how to re-fit with the new nitrile pipe I bought. The only thing I have not removed is the brake servo and have just painted around this, the Duraspark electronic ignition box, the coil and the wiper bottle came out to access the back bulkhead. All of the rivets for the wiring bracket were drilled out and the wiring pulled out of the way and tied back.

Now came the dirty part which was rotary and hand wire brushing clean all of the loose rust, white aluminum oxide and paint, the areas that I was unable to get to were treated with corrosion converter but there wasn't many areas I could not reach. Then it was just a matter of painting every part I could get to.

The Duraspark system and the coil got cleaned and painted separately and weren't in to bad a condition the washer bottle bracket was a bit worse and this required a good grinding and priming before a coat of paint, the rubber band for the bottle was perished so I will see what old leather belt I have in the wardrobe to replace it.

I had to wait a while for the paint to dry off but I got a bit impatient and decided to fit the heat shields while the paint was still wet. These were originally riveted on and where I could I have re-riveted, unfortunately a few of the holes have broken through so I shall have to get a hold of some self tappers and penny washers.

I also fitted the Duraspark unit and coil as they were dry but it still looks a bit of a mess with all of the wires loose. There is still a lot of work to do here before the engine goes in, especially the radiator and new fan unit, I also have an expansion bottle to fit so the radiator needs to be in to get the correct height for the bracket, the horn, the bonnet catch etc etc. I am off at midnight tomorrow for a long drive to Dover for a 0700 start on Wednesday so not much will be done tomorrow.

While I was waiting for the paint to dry I could not help tinkering with the engine again so I had a drive out and bought the 10mm bolts required for the mounts and the exhaust manifolds, the manifold holes required tapping out and I have loosely fitted the bolts ready. The mounts went on easily enough and I have positioned the ally rocker covers, still have to decided whether to have them powder coated red, black or chrome coated.

The alternator and belt went on mostly to get a look at the finished article and to make sure I get it right, still need to get a hold of a fan belt when I figure out what car its from.

Well I hope to get some more done tomorrow, if not then I'll be back in 2 weeks.
See ya

Paul

Air intake gasket & Tappets

Hi

Got back late Wednesday and have spent Thursday and Friday decorating, the living room was first and it looks nice and fresh, dining room and hall next time home.

As always I have been busy getting bits and pieces ordered, some of the parts I have already mentioned in my last blog and these have arrived. 

First a new set of Red HT leads.

I have a set of Magnecor leads on my MX5 which I bought on eBay as a used item for around £50 and were as new but a new set for the Panther would be nearly £100 so I have bought a cheaper set for £30 which are still 8mm silicon and look and feel good quality. I have also ordered a new Distributor cap for £17 and a Rotor at £4.50, there is probably nothing wrong with the ones I have apart from being rather old.

I have also got hold of a Ford clutch alignment tool for £5, a Unipart old new item on eBay.

Two of the bigger items to arrive are the Pacet fan and the VDO gauge.

I bought these from Europaspares and they arrived yesterday and are looking good, unfortunately they won't fit and this is because the sender and warning sensor need to both fit into the tee piece which sticks out right into the fuel inlet for the fuel pump.

Still; not a problem as I have ordered a brass 1/4" male / female elbow to bring it to the side of the engine avoiding the fuel pump. I never asked the price of the sender unit when I phoned in my order; there are a number of different senders in the older catalogue I had but not VDO, I thought it would cost around £30 but got a shock at finding it was £50 especially expensive when you consider the oil gauge was only £35, still needs must.

I will have to get onto Europaspares as there is no wiring diagram with the gauge as promised and without it I would struggle a bit to get it right, and they did promise me one.

The Pacet fan arrived and that looks a very well made and heavy fan, I never realised that Pacet is the only British maker of these fans, every other one Kenlowe etc are made abroad. (Buy British).

Included in the photo are the capillary controller and the tee piece to take the capillary sensor plus wiring loom.

I got started today by fitting the inlet manifold, I have been given a lot of advise in the fitting of this part and have followed the advise closely. I gave all of the surfaces a good clean again making sure there was no paint carried over to the faces, which there was. 

The gasket comes in the flat and needs to be bent to fit, it is of course important to bend it in the right direction so I spent a few minutes on test fitting plus I still had the original and double checked against this. The gasket needs to be bent along the correct line so as to fit into the corners where the heads join onto the block, to do this 2 pieces of wood are put front and back and clamped into position.

then using a straight edge to hold it flat the gasket can be bent and then repeated on the other side.

Test fit the gasket to make sure the angles are correct.

It is important to seal the corners were the gasket sits with silicon both top and bottom, but me being me decided that if you are supposed to seal the corners then why not seal all around.

So I have.

The gasket is put into position then the manifold positioned carefully on top, I had already cleaned all of the bolts and the nuts and gently tightened down evenly before torquing. The inlet manifold has 4 stages of torquing unfortunately my torque wrench starts at 44 Nm before that its basically guesswork so I started where it clicked very easily then added a quarter turn until I got to the fourth stage. The sequence is  7Nm / 11Nm / 18Nm / 23Nm, part of the advice I have been given is to repeat the final torque for three days as the gasket settles into position. Just wish I had spent more money on the torque wrench and got a lower setting one.

Once the inlet manifold was in position I refitted the Distributor, I had made sure that #1 unit was at TDC before fitting the heads, the Distributor was still setup to its original #1 position that I had marked on the cap and it dropped straight in, I had practiced this a number of times to ensure I got it correct. Once clamped down I checked that the oil pump rotated by removing the pump cover and turning the engine.

Once all happy with the fit I got started on the sump pan, I had a lot of carry over from the powder coating on the sump face which had to be cleaned off with the rotary brush which gave it a good clean finish. The face of the block got another good clean as it was now very oily and I needed to silicon seal around the edges where the tabs entered the block. Once I started sealing I decided to carry on and seal the whole gasket, just in case.

The flanges went on and the clips knocked over, I fitted new 6mm stainless bolts and washers and tightened down evenly although in some places the gasket squeezed out a little due to a little over zealousness.

Next was the rockers, these had been all cleaned and were ready to fit straight on, I only tightened partway before slipping in the push rods and positioning them under the rockers, I found that putting them in before the rockers are partially down allows the rods to flop about and out of position. The rockers then tightened down to 63Nm, I then turned the engine to ensure that everything was free and it was nice to see the arms moving up and down.

Once the rockers were tight I then got the book out on setting the valve clearances, I have done this many times on ships main engines and on generator engines which are really quite simple when you get used to it, only just on a much much bigger scale. 

The clearances are 0.014" or 0.35mm for the inlet and 0.016" or 0.40mm for the exhaust.

I have followed the instructions in the Haynes manual and hopefully have set them correctly, I shall check them again tomorrow just to make sure It is right.

Basically; the engine needs to be cold and you follow the sequence of steps laid down in the Haynes manual, when one set is rocking you then adjust the clearance on the corresponding set. Turning the engine each time until they are complete.

Well that's the engine finished, just the mounting brackets, flywheel and clutch to fit then its ready to go in. I have the alloy rocker covers which need modifying to take the vent pipe from the carb but that's another day first I need to get the engine bay cleaned and painted.

see ya
Paul

Distributor & Head torquing

Hi

Well as sure as eggs is eggs is what I said and the phone call half and hour ago which confirmed my cynicism, so I am off tomorrow for a week. Still it will pay for my wire's.

Had a good day up until the call, with the morning out in Tynemouth and a walk over to Saint Mary's island (the tide was out)

Saint Mary's Lighthouse

So much for North East tourism.
I managed to get a little work done yesterday and some more today, yesterday I only had a couple of hours so I concentrated on the Distributor, it was in a bit of a state so out with the rotary wire brush and it came up very nice. I stripped it down as much as I could.

Which just really meant the rotor being removed, the cover plate and clips, there is not much I could do with it, if it works leave it alone. I tried to pull a vacuum by sucking on the hose but I just ain't got the puff, I did check the arm attached to the vacuum device and it moved ok. The other thing I could do was to oil the felt pad to lubricate the bearing.

A good coat of paint and it looks like new, will look into getting the new cap and rotor while away.

Todays work was on the other engine components and also the engine paint job, as I said I was going to look for a touch up paint but decided to get a tin of red hammerite and hand paint the engine again. I gave it a rub down with a scotchpad before painting and it has come out quite good and I have a load of touch up paint left.

The starter motor got the same wire brush treatment as the Distributor and painted with the black chassis paint.

Before

After

Just need to polish the electric connections before fitting, not the best photo, it is in the vise as it is still a little wet.
The alternator came next and cleaned up very well before getting its painting.

Before

After

Again still a little wet.

I attached all of the powder coated parts to the engine and decided that it was about time the heads went back on, the brush for cleaning inside has still not arrived so I will add a cooling system flush agent and it will get a good clean once I start it and as with the oil I shall drain it and hopefully any bad bits will come out.

The gaskets have stamped on them front top so no getting it wrong and the heads just popped straight on, I had already cleaned all the faces and the bolts which just needed a little copperslip before fitting.

The torquing came from the Haynes manual for the Granada Mk2 2.8 which differs slightly from the 2.8 Capri but not much, the rotation starts in the middle and working out spirally, first stage 39 -54Nm second stage 54 - 69Nm then wait 10 to 20 minutes then third stage 95 - 115Nm well this is what the manual says. I did it by doing a small 10Nm to ensure the head was perfectly flat before any heavy torquing then 40Nm then 65 and waiting 15 mins then finally at 110Nm

Once the engine is run for 15mins at 1000rpm the torque is to be checked again at 110Nm.

I finished of by painting the inlet manifold and setting it on the engine, I had hoped to fit this tomorrow and the rockers, still next time.

Heads on

see ya
paul

Setting up Distributor and Engine mounts

Hi

Not much done this weekend with it being Easter, still I have managed to find time today to get some bits and pieces sorted.

I drained the acid out yesterday and washed out the residue with fresh water, I think I may have been a bit premature in filling with acid as what this remover does is to loosen the rust and then you brush it off. I have ordered the cleaning brush for getting inside the block but unfortunately it has not arrived yet, I am going to wait for it before I refit the heads to make sure as much scale as possible is removed.

I had a look at the engine mounts that I picked up from the powder coater's and attached the new rubber resilient mounts, originally they were stuck on with rust and had to be hammered off so a coat of copper slip before fitting will future proof the removal of them.

The heads needed painting before fitting and as I have 3 tins of black VHT paint I decided to keep the theme of black on red going, with the VHT paint no primmer is required (so it say's on the tin) so I have masked up the faces and given them 4 coats and they look great.

I have also fitted what I can to the engine that won't get in the way when I fit the heads, these include the new thermostat and housing's, timing plate and the pump pulley. I have used the new Payen gaskets but belt and braces I have also used Hylomar sealant on the housing sides.

I am not fitting the sump until the distributor is fitted as the distributor also drives the oil pump and I want to make sure that the pump turns, I have test fitted the distributor and turned the engine by hand with the pump cover off and it turned nicely. Still, I'm not going to take any chances so the sump will be last on.

Next was a little practice; if you have read when I first removed the engine you will know that I had to remove the distributor without being able to turn the piston of #1 unit to TDC and marking the position on the distributor, also I was not to sure of how to refit it in the correct position. I have done quite a bit of research since then and also had an email from Terry B and it really is quite simple, there are even videos on youtube of how its done I decided to give it a try before fitting the heads so I can see the piston moving in the correct firing order to the distributor and I marked each one in turn and engraved it on the cap. I am going to buy a new cap and rotor but can transfer the marks.

Basically it does not matter where on the distributor #1 is, this is random depending on where it is when fitted just as long as you start with #1 piston at TDC firing and not on the exhaust stroke, you find this by the notch on the timing wheel being inline with the degrees on the timing plate so if #1 is at the top of its stroke and the notch is not lined up then it is on its exhaust stroke, just turn and it will come back to its firing stroke. 

To find this with the heads on you can stuff a piece of tissue into #1 spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand, when it blows out and the timing marks line up then you know you are at #1 TDC.

I had originally marked the order on the cap with what I thought was a permanent ink marker when the HT leads were attached but when I looked only 1 and 6 were left on, but #1 was left so I turned the rotor to that position then slid the distributor down its hole. The gearing is side driven from the cams so will not go straight on, you need to hold it down and turn the engine and the gearing meshes and it slots into position.

 Doing this also slots into the oil pump so this was when I turned the engine and watched the pump turn.

Once the distributor is in position with #1 at TDC then it is a simple matter of turning the engine and watching the pistons come to their firing order 1-4-2-5-3-6, so after marking #1 hand turn and when #4 comes to TDC you take off the cap to check that the distributor has turned 1 notch and mark the #4 in that point and so on until all done if that makes any sense.

Not much else I could get done today so I thought I would see what the whole thing will look like so I positioned the heads and air manifold.

It was after fitting the heads that I realised there are areas around the heads that need painting so I have masked these off and primed and sprayed and will finish of tomorrow.

I also need a find a matching touch up enamel paint, Humbrol signal red will probably match as I have knocked bits of paint off in a few places and being a bit anal I'll see them all the time and it will drive me mad.

Still plenty to do on the engine and then I will start on the engine bay.

See ya 

Paul

Water hoses & Head conversion

Hi

Back again and hopefully for a 3 week leave, rotation changes have given me an extra week off on pay but as sure as eggs are eggs I'll end up having to pay for it somehow.

Its been 2 weeks of spending while away and over a £1000 spent as I am hoping to get the engine fitted this time home and a whole lot of work to do before hand. 

First off was the upper and lower hoses these would have been a bit difficult to track down but after doing a little search work on the Panther club tech area and comparing the photos with what I have it was easy. I found these as always on eBay, this is a great place to find obscure classic items as there are loads of sellers selling new old car parts.

Top off the picture is a Ford Fiesta 1976 onwards hose, it is the bottom hose from the radiator to the engine, this is an original Motorcraft item  EKF 255. £2.49 + p+p

The middle hose is the upper radiator hose and is from an Austin Allegro (first car I ever drove) and is from the 1500, 1750 (1973 - 79) model, this is a QH item RH1157. £6.99 + p+p

The bottom hose is the thermostat by-pass hose I bought last month from Tickover.

I found no problem locating any of these hoses so hopefully there will be plenty around for many more years to come or if you are forward thinking then get em while you still can.

There are a number of different size hose clips used for the hoses so I have bought a selection of 30 stainless clips in 3 sizes to suit them.

The fuel system needs renewing so I have bought new Nitrile fuel hoses and whole load of Mikalor spring clips, the copper supply pipe is fine as you would expect but the rubber hose has perished. I also bought a nice chrome fuel filter

The engine bay is a big priority and all of the hoses will be examined and if necessary will be replaced, the rest of the hoses are available from Halfords in metre lengths so no need to order.

I have also bought the stainless bolts for the rocker covers and the bell housing.

The rust and scale in the heads and engine block water galleries have been a bit of a worry, I had written to a business called L.B Restoration asking if an item of there's was suitable for getting rid of the rust and they where kind enough to put me on to a rust remover by Bilt Hamber called Deox C which is suitable.

This is a rust remover not a converter, I have had a go and have mixed a very strong solution and believe it from a person who uses a lot of different acid cleaners, it's strong stuff. 

I have plugged and taped over all of the holes on the engine and heads as best I can and have filled with the solution, it will probably be empty by the morning with the odd drip here and there but hopefully it will have done its job. I shall wash out the galleries and heads tomorrow and see just how good it is.

That's about the only physical work I have done today as most of it was spent driving around the north of England collecting my heads and the powder coated items.

The heads look good although they never bead blasted them as they said they would, that's most likely because I cleaned them so well they thought it not necessary. It cost £300 for the conversion, expensive but I am very pleased I had it done.

The hardened inserts are difficult to see as they are designed to be very small as the big problem found in un-leading these heads is that there is very little metal between the galleries and the exhaust ports and it is very easy when machining the recess to cut through ruining the head.

Very nice job.

As I have said I have also picked up the latest batch of powder coating, which includes the sump, engine mounts and water connections which shall be fitted once the galleries have been cleaned out.

I have spoken to John Wade again and have sent a cheque for my Webber DGAS and hopefully shall receive this sometime after Easter.

Another buy has been with Europa spares, I had a good chat with the tech guy there and have bought a 52mm VDO 5bar oil pressure gauge with a sender unit and tee piece so I can connect both the sender and the oil pressure warning light. I have also asked about chrome bezels for the VDO gauges, Europa do the 52mm bezels but not unfortunately the 80mm one's for the speed and tacho but being very helpful he is going to try and track them down for me.

Another of the important items is the electric fan, I have chosen a Pacet Clovafan Club kit 367mm 14" at £145, I chose the kit over the basic fan as it includes the capillary thermostat, wiring and fixing kit. I have also bought the Thermostat adapter at £16.90, this adapter T piece is connected in the hose between the radiator and engine which you have to cut to allow the adapter to fit in. Without this you are required to slip the thermostat into the hose before fitting to the radiator with the capillary tube sticking out and hope it seals when you tighten the clip, much neater with the adapter.

I am hoping to get started properly tomorrow although Lynne has decided that this leave should be spent decorating and has decided that the Living room Dining room and the Hall are to be decorated so looks like I have two jobs.

Se ya

Paul